Tips from my side of the frame...
In each of my newsletters, I include a section of tips from my side of the frame. Below is an archive of those tips.
BACKINGS
Minky | So soft and cuddly
Minky and cuddle fabric are becoming popular choices for backing. Here are a few things to consider when purchasing minky for your backing.
The longer nap of minky tends to pull through to the front of the quilt as it’s being quilted. The best way to avoid seeing these tufts of minky on the quilt top is to match thread color to the color of the minky. On my most recent quilt, I chose a gray minky because I knew I wanted to quilt it in gray thread. So consider what color thread you’d like to use before purchasing your cozy backing.
Because there is a lot of stretch to these types of backings, it’s helpful to give plenty extra on each side. This allows the longarmer to clamp to the backing without stretching the portion that is underneath your quilt.
Minky is not easy to piece, and it often results in a bulky seam that shows on the front of the quilt. Extra wide minky backings are becoming more widely available, and they produce a much nicer finished product. You can find a good selection of wide minky at Missouri Star Quilts.
Minky and cuddle fabric are becoming popular choices for backing. Here are a few things to consider when purchasing minky for your backing.
The longer nap of minky tends to pull through to the front of the quilt as it’s being quilted. The best way to avoid seeing these tufts of minky on the quilt top is to match thread color to the color of the minky. On my most recent quilt, I chose a gray minky because I knew I wanted to quilt it in gray thread. So consider what color thread you’d like to use before purchasing your cozy backing.
Because there is a lot of stretch to these types of backings, it’s helpful to give plenty extra on each side. This allows the longarmer to clamp to the backing without stretching the portion that is underneath your quilt.
Minky is not easy to piece, and it often results in a bulky seam that shows on the front of the quilt. Extra wide minky backings are becoming more widely available, and they produce a much nicer finished product. You can find a good selection of wide minky at Missouri Star Quilts.
Backing Seams | A well seamed backing makes all the difference
Unless you are using a wide quilt backing, most regular width fabric needs to be seamed, at least once, to be used as a quilt backing. Here are some tips to make a seamed backing that can be easily quilted on a longarm.
Don’t include the selvages of the fabric in your seams. Selvages tend to be more tightly woven and may shrink upon washing, resulting in a puckered seam.
Use a larger seam for your backing (I usually do 0.5-1.0”) and press it open to reduce bulk.
The edges of the fabric should be straight before seaming. A crooked seam results in a backing that is not square and will fold/pucker as it is rolled on the longarm frame.
Make sure all edges are straight before and after seaming. If one section is longer than the other, trim all edges even with the shortest section. In the end, a backing needs to have 4 straight sides.
Diagonal seams create a lot of bias stretch and are nearly impossible to load and quilt on a longarm. Avoid diagonally pieced backings!
Unless you are using a wide quilt backing, most regular width fabric needs to be seamed, at least once, to be used as a quilt backing. Here are some tips to make a seamed backing that can be easily quilted on a longarm.
Don’t include the selvages of the fabric in your seams. Selvages tend to be more tightly woven and may shrink upon washing, resulting in a puckered seam.
Use a larger seam for your backing (I usually do 0.5-1.0”) and press it open to reduce bulk.
The edges of the fabric should be straight before seaming. A crooked seam results in a backing that is not square and will fold/pucker as it is rolled on the longarm frame.
Make sure all edges are straight before and after seaming. If one section is longer than the other, trim all edges even with the shortest section. In the end, a backing needs to have 4 straight sides.
Diagonal seams create a lot of bias stretch and are nearly impossible to load and quilt on a longarm. Avoid diagonally pieced backings!
Pieced Backings | Asymmetry is key
Sometimes it’s necessary to add in extra fabric to a backing to get it to the right size. Other times it’s simply nice to add a little visual interest by bringing in fabrics from the front. Either way, there is one golden rule for pieced backings: asymmetry is key.
Because a quilt backing gets pinned and rolled onto the bars of a quilt frame, it is blind to the quilter once it is loaded. Inevitably, the stitching and rolling of the quilt on the frame can shift, shrink, and nudge the quilt top in a manner that isn’t easily predictable. This makes it next to impossible to exactly center a quilt top on a backing.
If a quilt backing is asymmetrically pieced, the shifting of the quilt top does not visually skew the alignment of the backing to the quilt top. Below are four ways to asymmetrically piece a backing and two backing “no-no’s”.
Sometimes it’s necessary to add in extra fabric to a backing to get it to the right size. Other times it’s simply nice to add a little visual interest by bringing in fabrics from the front. Either way, there is one golden rule for pieced backings: asymmetry is key.
Because a quilt backing gets pinned and rolled onto the bars of a quilt frame, it is blind to the quilter once it is loaded. Inevitably, the stitching and rolling of the quilt on the frame can shift, shrink, and nudge the quilt top in a manner that isn’t easily predictable. This makes it next to impossible to exactly center a quilt top on a backing.
If a quilt backing is asymmetrically pieced, the shifting of the quilt top does not visually skew the alignment of the backing to the quilt top. Below are four ways to asymmetrically piece a backing and two backing “no-no’s”.
Big Enough Backings | How big should they be?
A quilt backing that is pinned and clamped to a longarm frame.
Image Credit: https://quiltsocial.com
If a quilt is being longarmed, it is imperative that the backing is larger than the quilt top. Most longarmers ask for 4" extra of backing on each side of the quilt (for a total of 8" extra in both length and width). Why is this? In order to get the quilt backing loaded onto the frame of a longarm, the backing is pinned and/or clamped from the top, bottom, left, and right. The extra backing allows room for this to happen and ensures the backing remains nice and taught to prevent puckers and wrinkles as its quilted.
What happens if you don’t quite have enough? Please note that it’s almost impossible for a longarmer to work with anything less than 2" of extra backing. But if you are just an inch or two short, you can add cotton scrap-fabric leaders to enlarge the backing in the directions needed. This gives the longarmer something to “grab”, but it will not actually be part of the quilt backing. Think of it like adding borders (that will never be seen) to your backing.
First, make sure that the edges of your backing fabric are straight and square prior to adding the leaders. This is very important!
What happens if you don’t quite have enough? Please note that it’s almost impossible for a longarmer to work with anything less than 2" of extra backing. But if you are just an inch or two short, you can add cotton scrap-fabric leaders to enlarge the backing in the directions needed. This gives the longarmer something to “grab”, but it will not actually be part of the quilt backing. Think of it like adding borders (that will never be seen) to your backing.
First, make sure that the edges of your backing fabric are straight and square prior to adding the leaders. This is very important!
- Using a rotary cutter and ruler, cut 3-4" wide strips of fabric (please note that these must be straight as well).
- Pin the strips to the sides of the backing that need enlarged and sew using a walking foot (to prevent puckers and ruffles). Feel free to use a larger stitch length (3 or 3.5) so the strips can be removed and reused.
- Press toward the newly applied leaders.
QUILT TOPS
Applying Borders | Avoid the Wave!
If I could only share one piece of advice with clients, it would be about properly applying borders. The most common issue I see on my side of the frame are quilts with wavy borders (often called “friendly borders” becuase they are waving at you!). Wavy borders don’t lay flat on my frame, and a longarmer must slowly and carefully work in that extra fabric while quilting. Sometimes there’s so much extra fabric that a tuck or fold must be made in the borders. To avoid wavy borders, one must measure, cut, and pin before sewing.
Below is a link to a great tutorial and video on how to properly apply borders. It’s important to do this on all projects, from small table runners to king sized quilts.
Link: How to Accurately Attach Quilt Borders
Image from https://www.apqs.com/how-to-attach-borders-to-your-quilt-top/
Below is a link to a great tutorial and video on how to properly apply borders. It’s important to do this on all projects, from small table runners to king sized quilts.
Link: How to Accurately Attach Quilt Borders
Image from https://www.apqs.com/how-to-attach-borders-to-your-quilt-top/
Stray Threads | Threads are tricky
Quilts that use white (or very light) fabric are increasingly popular, especially among modern quilters. While these quilts are absolutely gorgeous, they present a unique challenge when it comes to threads from contrasting colors of fabric used in the quilt. Oftentimes you will end up finding these renegade threads after quilting, trapped between the top of the quilt and the batting.
The first step is prevention: trim, trim, trim! Before bringing your light/white quilt for longarming, carefully examine the back of your pieced quilt top and trim away any threads that are starting to fray. Even the smallest thread can shift and elongate while loading the quilt on the longarm frame. After I press a quilt top, I always turn it over and look for any threads that may have worked their way loose during pressing and trim those away accordingly.
After quilting, I again examine the quilt. If I see a thread trapped between the layers, I use this very fine thread pic to retrieve the thread from between the layers. It's helpful to have one of these on hand if you ever find a thread your quilter missed, or if some threads shift to light areas after washing.
Here is a video of how to use the pic. Happy quilting!
Image from Amy Quilts: https://quiltingdigest.com/how-to-remove-stray-threads-under-a-quilt-top/
The first step is prevention: trim, trim, trim! Before bringing your light/white quilt for longarming, carefully examine the back of your pieced quilt top and trim away any threads that are starting to fray. Even the smallest thread can shift and elongate while loading the quilt on the longarm frame. After I press a quilt top, I always turn it over and look for any threads that may have worked their way loose during pressing and trim those away accordingly.
After quilting, I again examine the quilt. If I see a thread trapped between the layers, I use this very fine thread pic to retrieve the thread from between the layers. It's helpful to have one of these on hand if you ever find a thread your quilter missed, or if some threads shift to light areas after washing.
Here is a video of how to use the pic. Happy quilting!
Image from Amy Quilts: https://quiltingdigest.com/how-to-remove-stray-threads-under-a-quilt-top/
Color Bleed | Don't let washing ruin your quilt
There are few things more heartbreaking in quilting than when a quilt becomes discolored in the wash due to color bleeding from darker fabrics onto the lighter ones. Red and white, navy and white, and batik quilts are particularly prone to color bleeding. Dark, economy priced extra wide backings also tend to lose a lot of dye (even when simply using the steam setting on the iron).
Luckily, there are a variety of products that can help prevent this from happening. I found this excellent blog post that outlines three products that could be very helpful when planning a quilt that may contain fabric that is prone to bleeding.
There are few things more heartbreaking in quilting than when a quilt becomes discolored in the wash due to color bleeding from darker fabrics onto the lighter ones. Red and white, navy and white, and batik quilts are particularly prone to color bleeding. Dark, economy priced extra wide backings also tend to lose a lot of dye (even when simply using the steam setting on the iron).
Luckily, there are a variety of products that can help prevent this from happening. I found this excellent blog post that outlines three products that could be very helpful when planning a quilt that may contain fabric that is prone to bleeding.
Bulky Seams | Press them into submission!
A common challenge for longarmers is trying to quilt over bulky seams. A bulky seam occurs when more than 4 pieces of fabric come together at the same point (like in the center of a pinwheel).
Bulky seams are particularly stressful on a longarm because they can break needles. Not only does this risk damage to the machine (a bent needle bar can be a costly repair), but it also often results in irreparable damage to the quilt top. When a needle breaks, it leaves a blunt end that continues to puncture the quilt top until the machine stops. Though this may only be for a second or two, longarms stitch so quickly that a few inches of the quilt may be damaged in the meantime.
This blog by The Crafty Quilter has a number of helpful tips for flattening bulky seams. I actually do all 3 for my personal quilts!
https://thecraftyquilter.com/2023/02/how-to-press-bulky-seams-flat/
A common challenge for longarmers is trying to quilt over bulky seams. A bulky seam occurs when more than 4 pieces of fabric come together at the same point (like in the center of a pinwheel).
Bulky seams are particularly stressful on a longarm because they can break needles. Not only does this risk damage to the machine (a bent needle bar can be a costly repair), but it also often results in irreparable damage to the quilt top. When a needle breaks, it leaves a blunt end that continues to puncture the quilt top until the machine stops. Though this may only be for a second or two, longarms stitch so quickly that a few inches of the quilt may be damaged in the meantime.
This blog by The Crafty Quilter has a number of helpful tips for flattening bulky seams. I actually do all 3 for my personal quilts!
https://thecraftyquilter.com/2023/02/how-to-press-bulky-seams-flat/
Acorn's Easy Press Pen | My secret for flat seams!
My mom introduced me to a tool that is now one of my favorite things to use when piecing: the Easy Press Pen by Acorn. It’s a pen that you fill with Acorn’s liquid starch, and you use before pressing in order to get a precise, flat seam.
I used it when I started my Alaska Star quilt by Edyta Sitar, and I was so happy with how flat my seams would press (I used this pen in conjunction with a wool mat, which is not needed but helpful in getting seams extra flat). I used it after every seam I sewed, and it really helped me to piece more accurately! Quilts with flat seams behave much better when on the longarm, reducing the risk of broken needles, skipped stitches, or unintentional pleats on the quilt top.
Here is a video of how it works. This gal presses after her entire block after it is done rather than after each seam she sews, but the concept is the same.
You can purchase it at a number of online retailers (just search for Acorn Easy Press Pen). Here is the link to the manufacturer’s website.
My mom introduced me to a tool that is now one of my favorite things to use when piecing: the Easy Press Pen by Acorn. It’s a pen that you fill with Acorn’s liquid starch, and you use before pressing in order to get a precise, flat seam.
I used it when I started my Alaska Star quilt by Edyta Sitar, and I was so happy with how flat my seams would press (I used this pen in conjunction with a wool mat, which is not needed but helpful in getting seams extra flat). I used it after every seam I sewed, and it really helped me to piece more accurately! Quilts with flat seams behave much better when on the longarm, reducing the risk of broken needles, skipped stitches, or unintentional pleats on the quilt top.
Here is a video of how it works. This gal presses after her entire block after it is done rather than after each seam she sews, but the concept is the same.
You can purchase it at a number of online retailers (just search for Acorn Easy Press Pen). Here is the link to the manufacturer’s website.
Stay Stitching | Keep those edges together!
Not every quilt has borders; many quilts have pieced blocks right up to the edge. When this is the case, I often find that the seams along the edge can easily come apart during pressing, loading, and quilting on a longarm. In order to prevent this from happening, it's a good idea to stay stitch along the edge of your quilt.
Here is a great video that shows how to do this: The Importance of Stay Stitching
Not every quilt has borders; many quilts have pieced blocks right up to the edge. When this is the case, I often find that the seams along the edge can easily come apart during pressing, loading, and quilting on a longarm. In order to prevent this from happening, it's a good idea to stay stitch along the edge of your quilt.
Here is a great video that shows how to do this: The Importance of Stay Stitching
T-shirt Quilts | trickier than they may seem
T-shirt quilts are a neat way to preserve memories in a tangible, cozy way. Many t-shirt quilts have passed through my frame over the years. From a longarmer's perspective, these are some of the things I've learned about what makes a great T-shirt quilt.
If a needle can't go through it, neither can my machine.
Solid objects like buttons, zippers, thick denim seams, rhinestones, etc. should not be included in a T-shirt quilt. If a longarm hits these objects its needle bar could bend/break (which is a very expensive repair!).
Bigger isn't always better.
T-shirt quilts can get heavy and bulky. Keep in mind that these are quilts that are used and washed often. Don't make such a big quilt that it can't be easily laundered.
Make 2 quilts instead of a double-sided T-shirt quilt.
It can be tempting to try to use more shirts by making a double-sided quilt, but not only does it get extremely weighty, but it is impossible to get them aligned correctly. Addtionally, the doubly thick seams risk damage to the longarm.
Quality interfacing makes a big difference.
All shirts need some sort of fusible applied so that they do not stretch. There are an overwhelming number of products out there, and some can be pretty stiff. I have consistently found that this interfacing (sold at the Sewing Studio in Hudson) creates the softest, most fluid quilts.
Fuse and sew pockets shut.
Sometimes people choose to include shirt pockets in quilts. Pease fuse the pocket shut and stich along the opening so that it is not caught by the longarm.
Make wide, open seams when sewing T-shirt to T-shirt.
If piecing a quilt with no cotton sashing between the shirts, use a wider seam allowance and press the seams open (and use a wooden clapper if you want to be extra awesome). This reduces bulk and allows the seam to lay flat.
If a needle can't go through it, neither can my machine.
Solid objects like buttons, zippers, thick denim seams, rhinestones, etc. should not be included in a T-shirt quilt. If a longarm hits these objects its needle bar could bend/break (which is a very expensive repair!).
Bigger isn't always better.
T-shirt quilts can get heavy and bulky. Keep in mind that these are quilts that are used and washed often. Don't make such a big quilt that it can't be easily laundered.
Make 2 quilts instead of a double-sided T-shirt quilt.
It can be tempting to try to use more shirts by making a double-sided quilt, but not only does it get extremely weighty, but it is impossible to get them aligned correctly. Addtionally, the doubly thick seams risk damage to the longarm.
Quality interfacing makes a big difference.
All shirts need some sort of fusible applied so that they do not stretch. There are an overwhelming number of products out there, and some can be pretty stiff. I have consistently found that this interfacing (sold at the Sewing Studio in Hudson) creates the softest, most fluid quilts.
Fuse and sew pockets shut.
Sometimes people choose to include shirt pockets in quilts. Pease fuse the pocket shut and stich along the opening so that it is not caught by the longarm.
Make wide, open seams when sewing T-shirt to T-shirt.
If piecing a quilt with no cotton sashing between the shirts, use a wider seam allowance and press the seams open (and use a wooden clapper if you want to be extra awesome). This reduces bulk and allows the seam to lay flat.